22. Kei Mouth to Wavecrest Hotel

22. Kei Mouth to Wavecrest Hotel

​

15 January 2023 - 17 January 2023

​​

the unplanned planned​

 

A full 8 months had passed since I last found myself on a beach, but I had to keep moving. This hike was planned to coincide with Cath’s participation in the BMW National Finals golf tournament at Sun City. The plan was to drive to Kei Mouth on Sunday, 15 January, spend the night there, and then hike for three days towards Mazeppa Bay. I would return to Kei Mouth on 19 January by taxi or bus, sleep over somewhere, and head back to PE on the 20th - the same day Cath would return from Sun City. I had only made a reservation for two nights at "The Thatches" in Kei Mouth to secure safe parking for my X-Trail while hiking.

 

Arriving early, I decided to take advantage of the remaining daylight, forfeiting my R500 deposit for the first night, and began my hike that afternoon. Overeagerness, my old friend. The weather was overcast, and rain was forecast. The "Pont" ferry operated from 07:00 to 18:00, but I was eager to start after the long drive from PE and didn’t want to waste six hours by waiting until the next morning to cross the river.

 

At 15:30, I was ready to cross the river at the Pont, and the operators took a photo of me in my signature white "England" T-shirt. Once across, I immediately followed the riverbank towards the sea and found myself in a vast open sand field, dotted with only a single cow among the dunes. The walk was challenging due to the soft sand, and by 17:00, I filmed a video showing how high the sea had risen, with bushes and tree roots exposed as the high sand banks collapsed. The grey sky and intermittent rain added to the difficult conditions. After about two hours of walking, I stopped to rest as my legs and feet began to hurt from the soft black sand, known for its high metal content, particularly titanium. I later realized this section of the hike should not be attempted at high tide.

 

I pushed on, only to discover that Seagulls Hotel was much farther than I had anticipated. Driftwood slowed me down, and although the tide had receded, there was little beach to walk on due to the rocky coastline. My phone, safely secured in Tupperware, became a source of concern as darkness approached. I feared missing the hotel and being forced to sleep in the rain. Fortunately, at 18:30, I spotted a fence and pedestrian gate through the misty rain and made my way to the hotel. I checked in and was relieved to find a room with a hot shower. Although I didn’t have dry clothes to join the other guests in the dining room, the staff arranged for my dinner to be delivered to my room. This was the first time I had stayed in a hotel during any of my hikes, and it was worth every penny for the comfort of a hot shower, cooked meal, and warm bed.

 

Monday, 16 January 2023

 

I had a restful night in a comfortable double bed, with my sleeping bag dry and my wet socks sealed in separate plastic packets. Breakfast was included in my overnight stay, and although the weather remained overcast, I was already 7km ahead of schedule due to my early start the previous day. I strolled through the beautiful hotel gardens, admiring the décor and plants, recalling previous visits to this hotel — first in 1974 with the school rugby team, and again in 1978 with my first wife and mother of my boys, Margie. The hotel had improved considerably since those visits. Some things get better with time.

 

At 07:30, the dining room bell signaled that breakfast was ready, and I ate well before heading back onto the beach through a small gate. "No shoes, no shirt, no worries" was the motto painted on driftwood, but I soon discovered a problem: the sole of one of my shoes was coming loose. Less than 20 minutes into my walk, I had to remove the shoes, put my phone back in Tupperware, and wade waist-deep through a river that had not appear on Google Maps (a supposed closed lagoon). The mist was thick, and the sun was hidden behind low-hanging clouds. Rocks forced me to higher ground, where I followed a faint path through grass along the shoreline. I came across a long sandy beach where cattle were resting, and as I walked among them, I was relieved to be forced inland again at around 10:00.

 

At 10:30, I reached the site of the "Jacaranda" shipwreck, which ran aground in September 1971. Today, only a few steel pillars remain, visible at times between the waves. The wreck had been largely intact when I visited with Margie in 1978. Some things get better with time, but mostly things are washed away. The humidity made me more tired, perhaps due to low sugar levels, and I followed a narrow path through a bushy area to higher ground, as steep rocks prevented me from walking along the beach. I eventually found a two-track Jeep road running along the ridge and followed it for about 3 km until I reached Kobonqaba River Cottages. The view of the river mouth and coastline to Wavecrest and Mazeppa Bay was breathtaking. The river was full, and its clear blue water indicated it was deep and still full of seawater. Too tired to walk down to the river, I found a spot under some large trees among the cottages to rest, while cows grazed around me. I even drank water from an unlocked water tank I found at one of the cottages, saving my own water for later.

 

At 12:05, after more than an hour of rest, I noticed two children paddling in the river about 800 meters away. I decided to ask them for help crossing. They agreed for a small fee, and by 13:45, I was safely across. Yet again, what I needed was there when I needed it. The beach ahead was rocky, and I had to follow a faint path through long grass up a long valley. The heat was oppressive, and I had to stop and rest several times, feeling like the hill was endless. Eventually, I reached the top, only to find no clear path to the sea—just dense bush. I noticed a small opening in the bush about 150 meters inland and decided to investigate.

 

My GPS showed my location but no clear paths were evident - I felt a bit lost. As I entered the forest, I came across a pile of saplings, freshly cut for building use. I followed a path through the thick bush, seeking the shade of the indigenous forest. However, my water ran out, and anxiety began to set in. I was alone, and the bush seemed endless. Fortunately, I soon heard voices and came across two workers clearing the path. They were employed by the Wavecrest Hotel and kindly offered me water. They told me the hotel was about 3 km away, and the path was now well marked. They also gave me a bottle of water, which I gratefully accepted. Help. Just when I needed it. 

 

The path diverged, one leading to the sea and the other to an airfield. I chose to continue toward the sea but didn’t realize that this path was even more rugged, with rock pools, boulders, and muddy roads. I drank the last of the water as I neared the hotel, but the journey felt never-ending. I stopped many times to rest, digging deep to push through cramps and shortness of breath from the heat. It had been a long and difficult day, and I was eager to be at the end of the physical requirement of it.

 

Finally, at 16:47, I reached the beachside entrance gate to the hotel. I was exhausted and recorded a video, reflecting on how this might be my last hike. I was too drained to continue to Mazeppa Bay and badly needed a cold drink. Sitting on the hotel patio, I ordered two Lemon Twist cool drinks and enquired about accommodation. I was lucky to find a room in a rondavel for R750, which included dinner and breakfast. After a hot shower and a short nap, I joined the staff for dinner in my last clean T-shirt. I asked about transport the next day, and they informed me that a bus left every morning at 07:00 for Centani, 40 km away. They offered to prepare a breakfast pack for me since I would be leaving before breakfast service.

 

The kindness I received from the hotel’s locally-owned management and staff, including the workers who helped me on the trail, was overwhelming. I donated the food from my rucksack and R100 (R50 each) to show my appreciation for their support. I truly believe that without their help, I might not have survived the physical and mental strain of that day.

 

Tuesday, 17 January 2023

 

I slept well and woke early, my body stiff from the previous day's exertions. I had no doubt that I made the right decision to end my hike when I did. I brewed a cup of coffee and sat outside to watch the sunrise. It was a calm, beautiful morning, and I could see fish swimming just below the surface of the river. I reflected on the long stretch of beach I had left behind, leading to Cebe (8 km away) and Mazeppa Bay (17 km further). It hurt to leave the hike unfinished, but I knew I had given it my best effort.

 

I left my wet shoes outside the door, not wanting to carry them in my rucksack. At 06:30, I made my way to the vehicle entrance gate to meet the guard on duty and wait for the bus. He told me that a resident of the hotel, the magistrate from Centani, was leaving early and offered me a ride. I met Dave Nell, who kindly gave me a lift to Centani, where I caught a taxi to Kei Mouth. It was 09:40 when I crossed the river at the Pont and walked the 1 km to "Thatchers Inn" for my second night. However, I canceled my reservation, opting to keep my R500 deposit for parking instead of accommodation.

 

At 10:30, I was on my way, reflecting on my fortunate journey. The weather was sweltering as I walked along the beach, enjoying the view of both the sea and the estuary to my right. The reflection of the sand and sky made the coastline seem endless, and I felt so fortunate to experience such beauty.

 

This hike taught me much about my physical limits and the importance of respecting nature. I learned to push through challenges and to appreciate the kindness of others when I least expected it. Even though I didn’t complete the hike as planned, the experience left me with invaluable memories and a deep respect for the beauty of the Eastern Cape’s coastline.

​​