39. Hluleka Nature Reserve to KuRebo Beach

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02 October 2025

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​the return. the arrival. the end

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Thursday - 2 October 2025

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I slept well and was up and about by 05:00, making myself coffee and repacking my rucksack for the hike ahead. It was heavily overcast and a cool breeze welcomed me when I stepped outside and packed the car before setting off up the first hill along the road to the new entrance gate.

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“We leave long before we understand what we are walking away from.”

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My plan for the day was to hike to the Sazinge River Mouth and back, then travel by car to Shark Point and overnight with Stephen Boshoff and complete the final section the following day. He confirmed that my car would be safe with him the next day (03 Oct) for the final hike between Shark Point and the Sazinge River. I had spoken to him on numerous occasions regarding accommodation and vehicle security needs while planning this hike. (Stephen had endured a fatal robbery attack at his home, in which his partner was killed, only 2 months earlier on 25 July 2025.)

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My first rest was at the newly built lookout platform about 1 km from my overnight cottage. The early morning freshness and the view filled me with energy and enthusiasm as I looked towards the horizon and knew the end of this journey was getting closer. The sun hardly made a reflection on the water, yet the view was crystal clear with no mist. I could clearly see the long beach ahead that led all the way to the Sazinge River mouth.

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At 06:30 I walked through the new entrance gate and followed a jeep track towards the beach. Hardly a kilometre further, a clear footpath led through the bush towards the beach and as the sun broke through the clouds, I stepped onto the beach. The vastness and serenity of the moment is difficult to share or describe, as everything around you seems so perfect - the endless beach, the fresh air, the soft sound of the moving waves - and just me, all alone, not a soul in sight.

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“Every ending begins long before we recognise it.”

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At 07:15 I reached the Sazinge River and found that the mouth had washed closed (it was only a lagoon). My plan had been to turn back at this location, but the situation had changed and I decided to continue into the next day’s hike (the 03 Oct plan was from Shark Point to this point). The weather was perfect, I felt strong, and there were still many hiking hours in the day available.

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The beach soon came to an abrupt end and a huge mountain blocked my way forward. I started searching for any sign of a footpath until I spotted two donkeys on the summit. (My GPS also indicated that there was a road on top of that hill.)

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Slowly and very carefully, I started climbing the steep slippery grass slope and relied heavily on my walking stick for support and balance. I rested many times and, looking back, was rewarded with the beautiful views as I increased the altitude above sea level. Finally, I reached the donkeys—but they just ignored me and continued grazing on the lush green grass. A few homesteads appeared, and a well-walked footpath led me past a freshwater dam before joining a narrow vehicle track that snaked through the homesteads to the top of the hill.

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While walking along the road I met an old local man battling to put one foot in front of the other. His name was Peter, and I took time out to speak to him. He was surprised that I could speak Xhosa and his whole face lit up when I put my arm around him to greet him. He did not know his age but told me he was “more than 70” before giving me directions towards Gologodwini River mouth.

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He did not quite understand what I was trying to do when I took a “selfie” photo of us, but when he noticed his face in the phone lens he beamed with pride and joy. I followed Peter’s advice and soon turned onto another road that led back towards the sea. This was Peter’s turf - and this was my last chapter.

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“that two people can look at the exact same thing - and see something totally different”

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The homesteads all had fenced-off gardens with many dogs, pigs, chickens, goats, and sheep just walking around the houses and in the road. However, inside the fenced gardens were a mixture of vegetables - but mostly cannabis plants. Bright LED lights powered by solar panels enabled these plants to grow at maximum speed.

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The walk along the road was very hilly with short, steep climbs before dropping into a valley again (rolling hills). At 08:20 the Gologodwini River mouth came into sight and I was grateful that I indeed continued the hike this morning. The inland walk was less exciting, however—it was difficult for my heart (breathing) and upper leg muscles. I startled a sleeping dog that jumped to its feet, barking fiercely as I approached a hut and even a little girl rushed towards me. Luckily an elderly lady shouted at the dog, which immediately retreated.

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I took regular photos as the river came closer until I reached a flat lookout area where I sat down for breakfast. The scenery was once again breathtaking, with the river running towards a dense forest and the vast ocean with a few splashing whales in the distance. Just before 09:00 I entered the footpath that led through the little forest towards the river. It was a well-maintained path and soon I was at the river edge, walking towards the mouth where it ran into the sea. I hung my rucksack on a tree and enjoyed the freedom of not carrying any weight as I soaked in the brilliant feeling of achievement and satisfaction that I had managed to walk the extra distance today.

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It was still early in the day, I felt strong, and I knew that my return walk to Hluleka would be far easier and less stressful. I found many fenced cannabis gardens in that forest as I walked a different footpath back to the road, but did not see anyone. The walk back was uneventful and by 10:50 I was back on the high hill looking down at the wide Sazinge River far below and the endless beach that followed. At 11:15 I reached the beach and rewarded myself with a “lie-down” break that brought relief to my painful legs.

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The wind speed had increased and was directly into me as I started walking back on the beach. The tide was much higher and the sand was soft in places, and I was at times forced to run from incoming little waves. A huge flock of seabirds remained grounded and only took off when I was almost amongst them. The walking became tougher and tougher and eventually I sat down again on a huge tree that was washed up on the beach. The end of the beach was in sight and I motivated myself, knowing only the short uphill road remained from there.

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"Courage doesn’t always roar within us - sometimes it’s just the quiet voice telling us to keep going."

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It was also rewarding to look back from that tree stump at the high mountain I had walked beyond that day—and back. Finally, just after midday, I sat down on a concrete block with the Hluleka main entrance gate in sight. I looked back from the top of this final hill of the hike and gratitude filled my soul that I had managed to walk the extra distance.

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“that life really is a series of small steps and that things are done gradually - maybe once every now and then there is a giant step - but most of the time we are all just taking small insignificant steps”

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I took a final photo with the thorn trees, the long beach, and the high mountain on the horizon to treasure forever. I was busy sending photos to my friends and family when my phone rang—and it was Cathy, confirming she would meet me the next day at Shark Point. She was very relieved that I was safe and happy, and she undertook to notify the rest of the family. I told her my plan was to drive to Stephen at Shark Point, sleep over, and then do the final outstanding leg of the nearly 4-decade journey the following day.

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Road Trip from Hluleka to Stephen’s House

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Stephen (my overnight contact) had sent me his pin location and at 12:30 I left to meet him, feeling excited about how well the day turned out so far. I had already completed more than half of tomorrow’s hike and my body (especially my legs and feet) enjoyed the rest while I drove slowly on the poor roads.

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It took just as long by car as on foot earlier to reach the Sazinge River. However, the bridge across the river had washed away and I was faced with the decision either to return on the very bad road, or to attempt to cross the river in my small Nissan Magnite. The road was temporarily repaired with rocks and loose cobbles, but what was of concern was the riverbank’s steep and slippery section for my under-powered front-wheel-drive vehicle. I decided to tackle the challenge head-on, and with spinning wheels, made it safely across. The road improved drastically afterwards and it was not long before the Gologodwini River mouth and the newly built bridge came into view.

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I contacted Stephen and he was surprised that I had arrived just after 14:00. I was not at ease with his home surroundings and with his recent robbery attack in my mind, I asked him if he would not rather take me back to Gologodwini River mouth by car. I would then walk the outstanding section of 3.7 km from there to Shark Point by road, as there was no shoreline path—and heavy rain was predicted for the following days.

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Final Hike: Gologodwini River to Shark Point

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Stephen dropped me at the road leading from the Gologodwini mouth up the hill and past the self-catering cottage that he also manages. From there the road drops sharply into a valley with a beautiful bay for fishing. This bay can only be reached from the road, and the footpath is clearly visible along the valley between the two high hills.

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I walked on to the top of the next hill and turned towards the sea along a smaller road (there is a tavern at the intersection), and then it was all downhill past Shark Point cabins all the way to KuRebo Bay. It was almost 16:30 when Stephen picked me up at the same beach I met Theo in March 2024 when I ended my hike from Port St Johns at that same beach.

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I was very tired and my legs and hips hurt from the steep downhill finish—but it was suddenly all over. Nearly 40 years later, I had finally connected all the dots between Cape St Francis and Port St Johns.

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“taking pride in how far i had come and having faith in how far i might yet go…”

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I thanked Stephen for his assistance and paid him R200 for his trouble (and overnight cancellation fee) and drove on to Port St Johns Backpackers. Before I even reached the reception office at Port St Johns, the heavens opened and it rained the entire night.

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The next morning it was still raining, and I drove from Port St Johns to Mthatha (2 hours) in pouring rain. Once again I realised how fate had saved me by enabling me to finish my hike a day earlier. I could have been stuck on bad roads with flooded rivers had I not followed my gut feeling of the day before.

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I followed my gut - and I walked.

Maybe this is all I have been trying to do.

Maybe this is all that I have been trying to say.

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