36. Nqabara Eco Lodge to Shixini River Mouth

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25 July 2025

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​the tree stump hike​

Friday, 25 July 2025​

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I had a good night’s sleep after yesterday’s hike to and from Dwesa Reserve Offices, and another beautiful sunrise greeted me when I had my coffee and a few slices of dry bread for breakfast. Matt offered to ferry me across the river again and at 07:20 I was safely across (again on a double paddle ski) and ready to tackle the only outstanding section of coastline between where I was standing all the way to the start of this journey (Seal Point Lighthouse at Cape St Francis).

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The tide was low and I could walk on the sandy riverbank towards the river mouth as the rest of the beach was littered with many tree stumps and hundreds of pieces of driftwood (all from the many floods in the last few years). The sun was brightly showing itself above the hill when I reached the main beach and I took a photo of the first tree stump of my journey. Little did I know then that that tree stump — and my footprints — would be covered by small waves on my return later in the day! Almost a kilometer further I took another photograph to record the perfect hiking conditions and beauty that lay ahead.

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The sun was behind me, no glare off the water, a long shadow, no wind, the tide low, vast open beach with no footprints, no noise or traffic — only the constant relaxing sound of the waves. Fresh sea air filled my body with energy and a deeply grateful heart was filled by gratitude that I could once again experience God’s gift (nature) and what was to come during the day. Not for the first time I dedicated this hike to my school friend, Niek van der Westhuizen, who was terminally ill with cancer. I told him I did not carry him in my rucksack today, but he was actually beside me in that long shadow on this journey. Oh this growing shadow.

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“We are never truly alone; our shadows walk with us.”

— Kahlil Gibran

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I passed a second and third huge tree on the beach as the blind corner of land that ran into the sea came closer and closer. I decided to name this hike “The Tree Stump Hike” because of all the beautiful trees that the sea had spat out and I used as beacons (short distance markers) as well as being very comfortable benches to sit on.

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After an hour of non-stop walking I reached the blind corner at last and wondered what lay ahead. Not surprisingly, another 5 kilometers of beach lay ahead and in the distant horizon I could see that the beach became grass foothills. I checked my Google Maps and realized that I was at Beechamwood and on my way to Tenza Beach, which I reached at 09:00. I passed a rocky section with crystal-clear pools of water and the beach was alive with snails that left their zig-zag trails on the wet sand, making me think of my own story and that even the snails are “finding their way”.

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I then passed a well-hidden cottage (green water tank visible from the beach) and the terrain changed into grassland and a narrow footpath just above the rocks. I knew then I had reached the last point of civilization and that the next 4 to 5 kilometers were just isolated grassland until my planned turning point at Shixini River mouth. Shixini River. Nemesis or accomplice?

The walk was tough as the path was deep and narrow and I had to concentrate on every step not to fall or twist an ankle. It was a much slower walk and the horizon did not offer any comfort as the hills just kept coming.

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Finally, an hour later at 10:00 I reached an area high above a beach full of driftwood. I was now looking for a path towards the beach as the grassland just turned into a dense bush ahead of me. Luckily I found an opening and followed a steep sandy path leading from a dune towards a beach full of round rocks and driftwood. Yet again I had to watch every step and relied heavily on my walking stick to keep my balance and footing.

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I spotted an old shipwreck and was amazed to discover that part of it was a wall of bricks and cement. I have never thought or even heard of a shipwreck being made of bricks and cement! More and more huge tree stumps blocked my way as I scrambled along the rocks to reach another pristine beach.

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In the distance I finally saw the cliffs above the Shixini River where I abandoned my previous hike three months ago and returned to Kob Inn due to the river being in flood. I walked back to that spot as if it was the final hole during a golf tournament I had just won — because it was the final few steps that closed the gap of my journey between Cape St Francis and Dwesa Resort.

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I reached the river at 10:30 and could not believe it was the same river I saw 3 months earlier. The raging brown river was now a clear blue stream that I could walk through at hip height.

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“Some journeys are finished by turning back.”

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I sat on the rocks I stood on in April 2025 and thanked God for the energy and opportunity He gave me to complete this isolated and outstanding stretch of coastline. My bucket list was lighter, my reward huge, as I sat there and reflected on how long it took to finally fill this very gap.​

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That a river in flood, and a river at peace are breathing from the same ocean.​​​​

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I crossed the river again back to the beach and moved to a tree stump where I unpacked my bag and had snacks and cooldrink. I took photos and videos and noticed that the wind started to stir my cap on my walking stick. A few clouds appeared from nowhere and I knew I had to start walking again — I was at least 12 km from camp.

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My hike back started with the long beach walk towards the shipwreck and I easily followed my previous footprints left in the sand as the wind got stronger by the minute. Luckily for me, it was an easterly wind blowing from behind and helping me every step of the way.

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Soon I reached the gap leading up the sand dune that led to the boring foothill trail. The wind felt much stronger than on the beach below. This was a tough stretch and I forced myself not to look ahead (I get despondent) as it was grassland as far as the eye could see.

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At 12:00 I reached the first wet crossing where I had to carefully negotiate a deep gorge with mud and a few loose stepping stones. Two more crossings followed as I made my way through a herd of cattle that lazily grazed on the grass. Every now and then I had to adjust my cap as the wind was really picking up speed and gusts of above 40 km/h must have easily been reached.

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I thought of being a sail ship with my rucksack on my back catching every breath of wind — and almost 2 hours after my turn, I was back on the sand at Tenza Beach.

The tide was much higher now and my footprints from earlier were all washed away. The wind picked up to gale-force strength and my legs got properly sandblasted. However, I was happy and grateful for the strong wind from behind, and the beach was much easier to walk on.

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I knew exactly what lay ahead and once again used the beautiful tree stumps as distance markers (setting goal and reward sections). At about 13:15 I sat down on a rock for the first time on my return journey as my legs and back started to hurt. I had done all the hard work and now had to focus on the finishing stretch, which became difficult with the incoming tide and soft sand.

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I had some wine-gum sweets in my pocket and rewarded myself with 3 sweets every time I reached a tree stump. My footprints became deeper and deeper and my legs started to ache when at last, just before 14:00, I reached the final kilometer that led to the river mouth.

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The “sunrise tree stump” was now under water and I was forced to walk carefully amongst the driftwood at the high-tide water edge remembering that we never break nature’s laws, only break ourselves against them.

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The river was full because of high tide and the strong wind blew small waves with spray into the air above the entire water surface. I phoned Matt as arranged to fetch me and he had to abandon his first attempt as the wind was too strong to cross the river. Eventually he paddled along the edge of the river and then crossed with the wind from behind (crosswind made the paddle ski unstable).

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It was a nerve-wracking crossing and we arrived wet but safe after about 10 minutes of paddling. I was very tired and poor Matt had to pull me up from the seat as I did not have the strength to get up by myself.

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This time Matt drove his 4x4 Landcruiser down the steep hill to the river mouth and I was spoilt by getting a ride up the hill to my cottage. Finally at 15:15, after 38,709 steps (30.97 km), I sat down with a cup of hot soup and looked out the window of my cottage. I was safe and I had achieved what I came to do this weekend.

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“In the depth of winter, I finally learned that within me there lay an invincible summer.” - Albert Camus

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I could now go enjoy a hot shower, put my feet up, and sleep peacefully tonight.

Tomorrow I will be as fresh as a daisy to tackle the difficult dirt road home — but for this moment, I felt like a true champion.

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Sadly, my friend Niek passed away four days after this hike — on Tuesday 29 July 2025 (only 5 days before his 70th birthday).

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RIP my brave friend.​