28. Kariega Mouth to Bushman’s River Mouth

28. Kariega Mouth to Bushman’s River Mouth

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26 January 2024

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i would know​​

This short stretch between the two rivers had been on my "bucket list" for years. I had already hiked from Port Alfred to Kariega Mouth on 17 August 2011 (Chapter 6), and from Bushman's River Mouth to Woody Cape on 17 November 2009 - two days after my 52nd birthday. Today, I was driving my new Nissan Magnite, and the weather was perfect for a spontaneous hike. The tide was just right for river crossings, and I didn’t pack food or drinks—just my walking stick, a rucksack, and some cash for petrol and whatever else I might need.

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I arrived in Kenton-on-Sea and drove to the car park overlooking the Kariega River. It was only 11:12 AM, but already hot, with kids swimming and running around. I walked and swam across the river to the other side before heading back to the car. From there, I drove to the next car park overlooking the river mouth and the main beach. The area felt safer, with a security guard stationed at the "beach office."

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The first section of the hike was beautiful — hard sand and a beach that seemed to stretch endlessly. My shirt was soaked, and sweat dripped from my cap. I had only a small bottle of cool drink, so I knew I’d need to find water soon. At 11:41, I got lucky and found a small caravan selling takeaways and cool drinks. I bought two cool drinks, two bottles of water, and a bacon and egg roll, which I ate while resting. Taking deep grateful breaths - feeling alive - knowing this is all slowly coming together.

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Refueled, I set off for the second part of the hike, which turned out to be more scenic and challenging. Due to the low tide, I was able to bypass the first "dead end" and found people and dogs enjoying shallow rock pools in crystal-clear water. I continued on the beach until I hit another "dead end" and had to climb a rocky hill. Once at the top, I was rewarded with a stunning 360-degree view of beach, sea, sky, and bush. Below me lay one of the most secluded and protected beaches I had ever seen. Soft, clear blue waves gently rolled in onto white sand, with no one in sight. And I wondered - not for the first time - about all the beauty that is never seen.

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I passed the secluded beach and continued along high ground for about 15 minutes before descending to some rocks below, where three fishermen were trying their luck. The rocks were fascinating, their different shapes and ruggedness creating the feel of a huge amphitheater with open skies above. At 12:20, I reached the Bushman's River, which appeared just around the next corner. I could also clearly see the long, open beach on the opposite side of the river (another section from one of my previous hikes) toward Diaz Cross.

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The river was shallow and wide, and because of the low tide, the walking was easy along the sandy bank. I walked upstream and found a narrow channel, with large sandbanks visible in the heat. The river was mostly still, with little current, so I left my rucksack on the side, undressed to my shorts, and plunged into the water. I took my time, swimming, washing my body and face, and walking across the river before returning to the other side. It was refreshing, and I felt fulfilled knowing I had finally crossed both rivers and the section in between. This is one of those sections that might have been easy to ignore - I was simply connecting the dots on either side of Kenton-on-Sea - as the crow flies, this is only 3.5km of uncovered coastline - but I would know that this section had been left out. I would know. And for that reason alone, it must be seen, navigated, and walked.

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I walked barefoot towards a parking area, but the hot sand soon forced me to seek shade. I sat on the steps of a footpath leading to the road, planning to walk back via town roads to my car. However, the road led to a cul-de-sac, and a well-kept footpath began to follow. It was headed back to the beach, passing through the bush I had spotted earlier from the "lookout hill." The path was about 2 km long and crossed some sandy dunes, but the last dune summit was breathtaking. I didn’t know where this path was taking me, but I recognized the beach I had walked earlier in the day. How special to see what I had just seen, but from above, knowing the footprints left there were still fresh and those memories still so freshly available to me.

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Much to my surprise, I ended up on top of a dune less than 400 meters from the caravan shop! This shortcut path wasn’t visible on Google Maps when I planned my hike. How great to have the shortcut after it is no longer required. How often I had sought the shorter way when it might have robbed me of so much of the journey’s pleasure. I sat down on a wooden bench to rest my legs, reflecting on the hike while gazing at the blue sea stretching to the horizon. When I woke up this morning, I hadn’t even considered doing this hike, but now I had just completed the final section I had been thinking about for over a decade.

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The long open beach between the caravan and the car park now seemed even more monotonous than before, as I knew I had already walked it earlier. The tide was coming in, and the small, fast-moving waves chased me from the hard sand to higher, softer ground.

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At 14:06, I finally reached the car park again. I took a photo of my rucksack and trusty walking stick framed by the large photo frame. My car was untouched, and I drove back to PE, a very happy soul.