24. Mazeppa Bay Hotel to Kob Inn Hotel
16 June 2023
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24. Mazeppa Bay Hotel to Kob Inn Hotel
16 June 2023
Footprints, Straight Lines, and a Clear Way Home
Cath and I decided to spend Father’s Day weekend at Mazeppa Bay Hotel, which was offering free accommodation for fathers (with only meals to be paid for). The low daytime spring tide was also a huge motivator. The section of coastline between Wavecrest and Kob Inn was still on "my bucket list" of coastal hikes. However, the roads were in terrible condition due to wet weather, and traveling to Mazeppa turned out to be an adventure in itself.
The original plan was for Cath to drop me off near Kob Inn while she drove on to Mazeppa Hotel to check in, and I would walk the 6 km from Kob Inn to Mazeppa Bay. Unfortunately, the road we intended to take had been washed away, and Cath rightly refused to drive alone on those rough, dangerous roads. I know what I would have done - if the decision had been my own. Probably got stuck. We finally arrived at Mazeppa Hotel around noon, unpacked our bags in our sea-facing room, and I spoke with the staff, who assured me that walking to Kob Inn and back before sunset was entirely feasible. The coastal footpath was well-marked, with few hills or rivers along the way. The day was clear and sunny, following a week of rain, so I grabbed my rucksack and set off via the beach and the famous footbridge at the island in front of the hotel.
After crossing the footbridge (which can be intimidating with strong waves rushing below), I reached the end of the beach. The path then passed a few cottages before climbing uphill to join the official hiking trail. This was an easy walk along the seaside, winding around gentle hills towards Kob Inn. At 13:30, I descended to a beautiful beach and crossed a small, shallow river. The tide was turning, and with it being spring tide, I made a mental note of an alternative route in case the river became impassable on the return. I quickened my pace, aided by the flat beach underfoot. Just then, a group of about 10 cyclists passed me, and from that point onward, I felt confident there would be no "dead ends" ahead. I followed their tracks where the sand wasn’t washed away, making it easier to stay on course. Wherever I go in this world - someone has gone ahead of me - and I found that comforting.
Soon, I came to a rocky stretch and followed the bicycle tracks through a small gap in the trees to a cattle footpath. The path led over a gentle grass slope, with a lovely fishing area coming into view. I saw at least two vehicles parked nearby, with a large group of fishermen on the rocks. At 14:30, just as I passed the fishermen, I rounded a blind corner and spotted Kob Inn in the distance. The path continued through a small gully that led back to the beach, about 1 km from the river mouth. This gully was quickly filling with the rising tide, so I knew I had to hurry to the river and back if I was going to make it before sunset.
The sand was soft, and the bicycle tracks were mostly washed away by the tide, but I could still hear the group across the river. They were being ferried across by boat and paddle skis. A fishing ski boat also returned from the sea, and there was quite a bit of activity on the riverbank. A young man on a paddle ski approached me - this time offering the help I did not even require - I had to turn back anyway. It was now 14:15, and although I knew the entire route back, I felt the pressure of the incoming spring tide. I wasted no time, walking as fast as I could without stopping to rest, except to take a few photos. The only time I allowed myself to relax was once I crossed the shallow river again.
The fishermen were also packing up as I made my way back. At 14:45, I reached the rocky entrance to the beach again. Now, it was a race against the shrinking beach to cross the river ahead. By 15:00, I had crossed the river (just above knee height) and found a tree stump to sit on and rest for the first time since starting my hike at midday.
The road ahead was elevated above the rocks and beach. Although uneven and sloped, it was easy to follow. I took my time walking back, enjoying the breathtaking views from the high footpath that wound around the hills toward Mazeppa. From here, I could see far across the ocean and along the coastline. The path soon led me to the entrance of Mazeppa village. A gravel road, about a kilometer long, lined with cottages, led all the way to the hotel.
At 18:00, after 18,547 steps, I was reunited with Cath, had a much-needed shower, and we went to the ladies' bar for a drink before dinner.
And on days like today I am reminded that sometimes the best progress is the unchaotic type - and I wondered to myself - could this day have ever happened this way, had I been behind the wheel?
