38. Hluleka Nature Reserve to Mtakatyi River Mouth

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01 October 2025

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​returning to the beginning

...to finish the end

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Wednesday - 1 October 2025

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I woke up at about 04:30 in my childhood bedroom. I last slept in it 50 years ago (our old home had been revamped into a guesthouse). It was a night filled with memories as I recalled each room, the furniture placing, the wall hangings, the lounge full of trophies, the huge garden. I grew up in this very house from May 1966 to November 1975 before relocating to Tarkastad two days after I wrote my final matric exam. I allowed myself to return.

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“Some places take us back in time; others bring time back to us.”

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Just before 06:00 I took a final photo from the veranda overlooking the golf course with the blue mountain range in the background. How blessed was I to have spent so many years in this house, looking at this view daily, walking the fairways from the age of nine, becoming the golf match-play champion at the age of 15 before finally breaking the course record on 22 November 1975.​

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“that maturity has more to do with what type of experiences you have had and what you have learned from them and less to do with how many birthdays you have celebrated”

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Travelling directly into the blinding, rising sun was very difficult for the first hour, followed by a challenging 45 km dirt road section before I safely arrived at Hluleka Nature Reserve Offices at 08:10. I arranged for one night’s accommodation (I was the only visitor) before walking down a steep hill towards the main beach, starting my hike to Mtakatyi River, 8 km away.

A single pathway led me through a picture frame of branches and onto the beach with soft, clean sand. I was directed to the lagoon and a narrow river crossing, before taking another pathway (they called it “the shortcut”) up a steep hill on the other side of the river. Walking up this hill, I already felt the heat of the day (prediction was 35 degrees). When I reached halfway, I met a team of wardens patrolling the area. From the summit I looked back at Hluleka beach, with a long rocky beach below (with many hills thereafter) waiting for me as I headed towards Mtakatyi.

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The downhill path was well marked and at the bottom I was greeted by a large lizard on the rocks. I continued along the rocky shoreline until I realized there might not be a way around the rocks that ran into the sea. However, I spotted a fence on the edge of the steep hill and noticed a ladder at the bottom corner of the fence. This gave me the motivation to continue along the shoreline (not turning back), as it could be the route around the blind corner.

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Indeed it was, but I soon realized the incline was very steep from the rocks to the ladder and then further up to the top of the hill. I rested many times going up along the fence but was rewarded with the most spectacular views over the coastline and the open ocean as I climbed higher. Finally, I reached the top and found a jeep track running down into a valley where some cows were grazing. Looking back along the track, I noticed some houses (staff accommodation) and knew I was on the correct path after losing my way on the beachfront.

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At the bottom of the path I met two local men collecting mussels and one actually asked to be photographed with me. I instantly thought they were interested in my cell phone and told them I did not have a camera. However, one had his own phone and he took a photo of us. After speaking to them for a while, I produced my own phone to have more pictures taken. They also advised me about the way forward and what to expect along the route. When possible threats turn into allies.

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A steep hill followed and again with regular resting intervals, I reached the summit. Once on top, the vegetation changed to long grass and more thorn trees. A herd of goats and a few cows grazed around me when I sought shade under a tree for a while.

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I was exhausted from the “heartbreak hill” and actually lay down on my back for about 15 minutes to recover. I then continued walking along the tall grass until I spotted Mtakatyi Lodge and the river far below in the valley. I stayed on the ridge of the hills and was once again rewarded with an incredible view of a secluded bay far below. I was planning to stay on the high ridges of the hills and walk all the way to the end overlooking the river where a previous hike had ended. However, due to the extreme heat and the rolling hills (deep valleys), I decided to take the easy route all along the valley to the river.

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This was not a good decision as the bushes became too dense and there were no visible pathways to follow. I decided to rather turn back for safety reasons as I was all alone and feared getting lost—or worse, bitten by a snake in the high grass. Ticks I could handle, but any bite or injury could be fatal as my cell phone signal was also fading going down into the valley. Just after 11:00 I started my return walk and although the wind was stronger, I made quick progress knowing the correct pathways. I took my time looking down over the ocean and far onto the horizon at the terrain I was planning to walk the next day towards Shark Point.

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The “Wild Coast” certainly lived up to its reputation as I surveyed the wild sea, the high cliffs, the thick bush, its uninhabitable terrain. The heat and undulated terrain began to drain my energy levels fast (also the lack of proper dinner and no breakfast) so I decided to follow the old abandoned jeep road all the way back to the starting point of my hike (not along the fence and the rocky beach). I passed the staff accommodation centre and reached the “old” main entrance gate (now permanently closed since 2021) after many devastating floods washed away the road and bridges that lead to Hluleka resort facilities and the main beach.

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I was hoping that I did not have to walk the “shortcut” path over the last hill again and that the remaining old road would be less strenuous. However, I soon regretted that decision when I reached the washed-away bridge and realized it would be impossible to cross the river at that point. I had no alternative but to turn back and walk up the hill again, searching for the footpath that led to the beach. The long way around really was the long way around. At least this time I had tried something different.

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I found an overgrown path that led to a burnt-down Tourist Information building and the rocky beach. With the “shortcut” hill now clearly visible, the challenge just became too much and I actually lay down, covering my face with a small towel. I drank as much water as I could knowing I needed every little bit of strength and energy to overcome the last steep hill home.

About 30 minutes later, accepting that I had no other choice but to start walking again, I stood up and walked towards the rocks hoping to see the lizard again. The walk over the hill was tough with many short steps and many stops to catch my breath. The downhill towards the river was just as painful as my hips and legs really hurt with every step.

As I carefully tried not to fall (or twist an ankle) on the loose stones and slippery grass, I knew that without my trusted walking stick I certainly would not have managed that last up-and-down “shortcut” hill.

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“A hard path doesn’t mean you chose the wrong one.”

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I finally crossed the river and took off my rucksack and planted my walking stick in the beach sand. It was past 14:00 and the hike was far more strenuous than I had anticipated. The last short climb from the beach to my cottage was physically draining but mentally I felt strong and refreshed again.

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I have overcome the hardships and difficulties of the last few hours and a hot shower and a comfortable bed waited for me. There was no WiFi or internet signal in the resort (only phone signal in the area) and therefore I could not even share my experiences with any of my family or friends that afternoon on social media. My whole life I had been expanding outwards - or so it felt - today it felt more like I was being folded inward and I felt more and more content with the story as it existed to only myself. That we do not always remember days as much as we remember the moments in which we truly alive.

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I made myself a huge pot of pasta for supper before going to bed just after 20:00 whilst listening to the soothing noise from the sea, before falling asleep.

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